TO-DO
Little Bag Of PinchesV6Starts on the big jug at the bottom left end of the roof and climbs out the roof past pinches to slopey edges above the lip, and a juggy topout.
Burnwood, New River Gorge
3+ padsGin And SevenV7Incredible sequence. Start low on nice ledge, move through a gaston sidepull and into a crack seam. Huge move to a thin 3 finger drag then bump higher in the smallest part of the crack. work your way up left and make a hard top out.
Fern Point, New River Gorge
3+ padsPepe’s RoofV10Lowball Roof, Highball v2-3 top out through big ledgy face moves.
Burnwood, New River Gorge
3+ padsThe FrenchmanV7Insane traverse, insane top out. Beautiful line, one of the NRG’s proudest.
Fayette Station, New River Gorge
3+ padsThe MacGuffin
V5Start on low jug rail. Climb up to a perfect rounded crimp and jump to a perfect rounded sloper.
Meadowtop, New River Gorge
3+ padsKamajiV7The full stunner line through the featured roof, start low and left with feet on shelf and hands on good edges closest to shelf, tech, tension, hop & skip your way out the roof meeting up with soot sprite.
White Rock Roof
3+ padsEgyptian Root CanalV5Sit start on the far right side underneath the roof. Climb up and left on horizontal rail features. Slap the left edge of the roof, then make a long move up right to a sloping hold, and top out.
Meadowtop, New River Gorge
3+ padsLost My KeysV6Stand start on head height incut crimps. Finish straight up.
Meadowtop, New River Gorge
2+ padsNarcissus5.12aStart in a short low angle dihedral that has a crack that seeps forever after it rains. Make a few moves into a no-hands rest, clip your bolt and start the pumpy section of the climb, the rest of it! Using jugs, and big crimps make the traverse quickly clipping as you go. Breathe and then get ready for the meat of the route, make a long reach off of some crimps (shorter climbers sometimes dyno, sometimes use a bad intermediate), then grab the big rounded lip, traverse out onto the arete bear hug it and get up a heel, make the hardest clip of your life, then grab some jugs and fight the pump for the last 30 feet of this climb. Beware the pump crux--- Clipping the chains!
Narcissus Cave, Summersville Lake
6 permadraws to a 2 bolt anchorStarry5.12aAn area classic. This line is characterized by ever steepening juggy climbing with a bouldery crux or two up high and a climatic finish. The first 2/3rds of this climb aren't any harder than 5.9 and there is a full no hands lay down rest before the crux.
Third Buttress, New River Gorge
9 bolts with a 2 bolt anchorApollo Reed5.13A classic jug haul. Some will argue the grade; Brian McCray (rip) once quipped that this is "everyone's first 5.13, until they get on a real 5.13." But while sending this rig definitely won't help you on your journey to sending Quinsana Plus (let alone Greatest Show), it still feels right in line with other classic endurance lines of the grade in the area and around the country.
Easy climbing to the second bolt over a roof at the "shield," where you'll encounter the most beta-intensive sequence of the route. Lots of folks have called this the crux, but it's not. Pumpy fun climbing from there up to the 7th bolt, where the holds get smaller and farther apart for three or four moves. Nail the left hand jug pocket and subsequent mega jugs, and you've got it in the bag. To get full credit for the send you need to take it to the top of the cliff, but repeaters usually clip the last fixed draw at the final roof lip and lower off. Did I mention that this thing was classic?
The Coliseum, New River Gorge
11 bolts, all but the first one is fixed.Pockets Of Resistance5.12b/cTough moves from the moment you leave the ground till the 4th bolt then eases up. Belayers need to be very attentive and watch for swinging climbers with frequent committing moves.
Kaymoor, New River Gorge
5 bolts with open hangers at the anchors