LOCAL CRAGS







Cascades
The Cascades Recreational Area has a number of quality bouldering opportunities that are easily accessible and within a close proximity (approximately 30min) from Virginia Tech's campus.

Climbing at the Cascades is mostly sandstone. Nice slopers, pinches, and a few small crimps can be found here. In the cooler months the friction is hard to match. There are slabs, vertical faces, pumpy roofs, steep inclines, and attractive stream-side boulders to choose from.
Over 150,000 people visit the Cascades a year. Please be respectful of everyone's recreational experience. It only takes 1 complaint from one person to shut the climbing here down for good.
Climbing on or near the waterfall itself is prohibited (obviously since the rock under it is chossy and wet), and the sign is explicit in warning against it.

Barneys Wall offers some alright roped climbing and is in this area as well. Barney's has it's own page here on Mtn Project in case you've come to this one looking for it by mistake.

Enjoy!

P.S. There are many other fantastic boulders in the Cascades area. We hiked along much of the hillsides and saw many other quality boulders. The approach can be steep, but if you are looking to explore new blocks, there are plenty waiting out there for the motivated and adventurous.

Take exit 118 I-81 north on US-460, making
sure to use the bypasses around Christiansburg
and Blacksburg. After 26.6 miles turn right
on Cascade Dr (SR-T623) in Pembroke.
The entrance is in 3.3 miles.Mill Creek
Mill Creek is the truest definition of a hidden gem for the NRV climbing region (and maybe the best area around …). Once you arrive to this natural utopia not only will you be greeted with pristine surroundings (including a creek that could rival Cascades), amazing hand cut mountain biking trails, miles of hiking trails, flora and fauna to fit your wildest ecologist dreams, you'll also find magnificent boulders of all varieties!

In general the rock is very similar to the sandstone found at the Cascades bouldering field, with a relatively grainy feel in regards to the boulders closest to the creek. Once you start venturing up the hillsides the rock tends to have a tighter grain structure creating all kinds of amazing features from slopers to edges, and from pockets to pinches! Closer to the waterfall you'll find some boulders (Magrathea and Jolly Green Giant) which have a completely unique rock structure and make for some amazing climbing.

The land is partially owned by the Town of The Narrows, and then extends into Jefferson National Forest. Ralph Roberston (local legend) has hand cut several miles of great singletrack mountain biking on the land owned by the town. So even if you are not there to climb, the miles of trail for both MTBing and hiking within the unreal natural landscape will make you content beyond belief!
Mill Creek Nature Park (official name) is a 30 minute drive from Blacksburg VA on 460 West. It is 1 hour and 15 minutes from Roanoke VA.
Butt Mountain
Crag Currently in development by Appalachian Illness. Amazing lines of cliffs spanning for at least a mile, plenty of boulders to experience and clean off. With some love and proper cleaning this place could become a super popular local rig. Amazing lookout if you head to the end of the dirt road and go past the gate, past the cell tower and shed. Be cautious though. We don’t know who owns this part of the land.
Take the first road splitting to the right after you take 460 the same way you would getting to cascades. Head up the road for about 20 minutes. Don’t go without 4 wheel drive. Carpool.

Note to self: Ask Doug and Ray for the coords. White Rock Roof
An amazing overhanging roof on big stoney creek, climbs remain shaded and great spot for river shenanigans. Go when the water is low to avoid a treacherous stream crossing.
Heading west on 460 from Blacksburg, turn onto Big Stoney Creek road (route 635), follow it through Goldbond. Once you are driving next to the creek, be on the look out for an obvious cliff band on the right at a bend in the river with a roof at the base. There is a decent pull-off just past the bend.



New River Junction
The Junction is a beautiful little spot easily accessible for the NRV. It hosts a handful of TR/Trad routes and then two brilliant 4th class ridge scrambles. This little zone has a choose your own adventure feel and more than likely has potential for more adventure climbing if you feel so inclined, specially on the upper faces of the ridge.

This location is also home to some great water access where you can paddle the white water of Big Falls, enjoy a lazy tube down the New, or just some hanging by the shore! Also nearby is the popular New River Cave, which can keep you occupied for hours!

Know that technically you are on private property once you top out. The railroad company owns this land. They don’t really care though and kids swim here all the time, cops more worried about kids drinking and littering and swimming than kids climbing.

This downclimb is also rough. Be prepared to downclimb some sketchy slab, slide on your ass where it’s too steep to walk, rip your pants, and come home covered in dirt and spider bites. The Junction is located on Big Falls Rd. (State Rt. 625) in McCoy, VA. The climbing is exactly at the "Big Falls Rapids" across the train tracks. It's nearly impossible to miss the slabs at the base when looking from the road. The tuber takeout is on private land so no parking but across the street there are plenty of pullout options. Just be mindful of the traffic and park appropriately.