FAVORITE ROUTES
Ferrovieri5.7A super fun cake walk route. Great warmup, great end of day climb to run laps on.Well featured slab climb that steepens the higher you go. Super high first bolt, so bring a good stick clip or thug it out! Enjoy the view when you clip the anchors.
Second Buttress, New River Gorge
9 bolts to anchors - 11 draws total
Hippie Dreams5.7Amazing arete climb. You’ll make a fun mantle move about a third of the way up. Great warm up, right by the lake.
Orange Oswald, Summersville Lake 6 bolts to a two bolt anchor with rings
Diggie Diggie Doo5.8Tecnhical feet all the way up. Minimal hands. Super enganging and sustained slab. Trust the start...it’s spicy but chill. Belayers-Beware, you’re belaying off a small ledge. Consider anchoring or just being extra careful.
Cotton Club, New River Gorge
7 bolts to bolt anchors
Bullocks5.9Solid 5.9 climbing. Really really spicy start in this dope wako. If you can do the start you can probably finish this route. Bolts are run out, enjoy the southern spice and don’t look down.
Second Buttress, New River Gorge
4 bolts to anchors
Rico Suave5.10aClassic of the area. Another cool arete climb. Belaying off a large ledge. Lots of hand-feet matches, techy slab, a fun layback before a mini roof bloc crux. I’ve climbed this in torrential downpour, it stays relatively dry.
Kaymoor, New River Gorge
7 bolts to anchors
The Green Piece 5.10bSlightly overhanging face climb. Awesome start, gets tricky and pumpy nearing the top. Definitely a great 10b for those breaking into the grade. Crux for me was trusting a scary pocket and crimp and making a clip 2/3’s through. Awesome gaston move at the top.
Kaymoor, New River Gorge
7 bolts to anchors
Underdog5.10aOne of Rumney’s most classic routes of the grade. It is long, starting with easy juggy vert/slab, steepening through the middle of the climb. The technical crux of the route involves moving left near the fourth bolt. Continue past the famous "triangle," pocket. A thin move or two brings you to the last moves before the anchor.
Main Cliff, Rumney
9 bolts to anchors
Sweet Poly Purebred5.10cEasy juggy climbing leads to a rest ledge. Put a long draw on the bolt off the ledge and launch into the overhanging crux (previously "protected" by a shady pin). This crux can be baffling until the correct sequence is found. Layback up the wonderful hanging corner. Slabby moves give way to another crux below the anchors.
Main Cliff, Rumney
9 bolts to anchors